The Magic Isle.

If you’ve booked your plane ticket to islands for the Maui Invitational basketball tournament, chances are you’re expecting paradise. You won’t be disappointed. The lure or Maui is one of the reasons why I’m making my third trip to the Islands, to cover our Dayton Flyers and to revisit an old friend. I’ve had the good fortune of visiting every major island in the chain and Maui is at or near the top of the list. Only Kauai, the northernmost of the major islands, gives Maui a run for its money.

Of all the islands, Maui best displays a blend of old and new, incorporating a mix of mainland eccentricity and unspoiled native splendor. On my first trip to Maui more than 10 years ago, prices were steep and there were few mainland staples, but that’s changed now as K-Mart, Target, and Wal-Mart are on the same street corner as authentic local restaurants catering to the sea. Maui is experiencing an industrial revolution of sorts, but there’s still more than enough room for everyone to spread out and lose themselves in the tropical beauty.

Weather.

If it’s your first trip to Maui, the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive in Kahului is the stiff breeze. Maui is by far the windiest of the Hawaiian Islands as two peaks on each end of the island funnel the tradewinds like skyscrapers in Manhattan. The Kaanapali coast, the western side of the island where the Maui Invitational is held, is less windy and more tolerable than the southern coast that lies sandwiched between Haleakala Crater (Maui) and Mauna Kea (Big Island) — two peaks rising well over 10,000 feet. Wind aside, the weather is as expected — fabulous. Don’t be surprised to see major cloud cover inland, but just as you approach the Pacific the clouds give way to warm sunshine. The easiest job on Maui is held by the local weatherperson. A high of 86 and a low of 70 is all you need to know unless a hurricane looms. Tropical showers are hit and miss but parts of the island suffer from a lack of rain as the eastern side takes a direct hit from most of the precipitation.

Geography.

The Kaanapali coast is a favorite of mine, and it’s the perfect location to host college basketball’s most prestigious in-season tournament. Getting to Kaanapali from the airport in Kahului takes around 45 minutes, but it also depends on where you are staying. Contrary to what some have suggested, Kaanapali is littered with fabulous hotels located just minutes from the Lahaina Civic Center. A favorite of mine is the Maui Sheraton, about 10 minutes north. The rooms are great, the hotel is gorgeous, and the view is nearly indescribable. It’s also within walking distance to a great shopping village that caters to everything from upscale clothiers to t-shirt shops to restaurants — all seaside. Pick up some souvenirs, then sit down and enjoy a dinner as the sun goes down. That’s the golden charm of staying on the west side of Maui.While Kaanapali is at the top of my list, the southern coast near Wailea is anything but a mistake. Some of the finest hotels dot the southern coast — many of which are so big and spectacular they look like compounds. If you love golf, shooting par in southern Maui is like shooting a 59 at Augusta — or so I’m told. Fear not however as gold courses abound, so many in fact that there’s hardly a spot on the island where you aren’t looking at one.

What to do.

Conquering Maui in 2-3 days, or any other Hawaiian Island, is simply impossible. I encourage anyone who intends on staying an extended period in the islands to pick an island or two and take your time. Maui offers enough to keep the locals busy so don’t expect to cover all the bases no matter how hard you try. Having said that, there are several “must sees” or “must dos” in Maui. Pick the ones that interest you and fit your budget, but never rush things just to say you did it or saw it. Here are my recommendations on the major attractions:

Haleakala Crater.

This extinct volcano towers over 10,000 feet at the summit and is unlike anywhere else on the planet. Travel to the top and view a landscape that looks like a panorama from the Mars Polar Lander. If those in your party are early risers, wake up in the middle of the night and drive to the top to view the morning sunrise. While I’ve been the summit several times, I’ve yet to see the sunrise in spite of myself. Also, consider a bike ride down the crater — a journey that will put you in the Guinness Book of World Records as coasting down the steepest road in the world. The ride descends over 10,000 feet in under 25 statute miles and all but a few hundred yards is unpedaled. Typical tours range from $40-$80 and include a box lunch. Tour guides will pick you up in passenger vans at your hotel and deploy the bikes once you reach the top and have taken a few minutes to appreciate the view. The bicycles are not the top of the line, but usually have disc brakes to keep everyone safe. Take layers of clothing you can shed later as you descend the crater. Temperatures are in the mid-40s at the summit and the ultraviolet light will turn your skin purple in a matter of minutes if you don’t cover up. Cover your hands with gloves too — they will take a solar beating from cooking all day on the handlebars. Be sure to bring your shades as well.

Molokini Crater.

Like Haleakala, Molokini is extinct too, but it lies off the coast of Maui as a small ring protruding from the ocean. Several tours take you to the crater for an afternoon of snorkeling. While some visitors have been disappointed in this attraction, it’s one of the best places to see sharks. I saw four of them and considered it worth my time in spite of the mediocre visibility. In terms of pure snorkeling, it’s average. If you are used to the clear pools found in Yucatan, it’s probably not for you.
Luau. Every luau endorses itself as the best one on the island, but in truth, they are all fairly similar. Many luaus re-enact the history of the islands or seasoned folk tales passed down from the natives. By sheer size alone, the luau performed in the city of Lahaina (about 20 minutes from the major Kaanapali hotels) is considered the Cadillac on the island. Reservations to the Lahaina luau must be made a couple days in advance and ticket demand is significant. The luau offers an outdoor buffet dinner on the heels of a cooked pig that’s been simmering in a buried hole all day. After dinner, the show commences with the usual assortment of flame twirlers, native chants, and re-enactments. The luau is very expensive but well worth the experience for first-timers. Many returnees will skip this tourist-driven attraction.

Catamaran trips.

One of the most enjoyable attractions is reserving a seat on an all-day catamaran trip on the open sea. Itineraries differ like the names on the boats, but it’s hard to go wrong if you do your homework. The last one I took sailed across the Auau Channel to the island of Lanai for a day of sun, fun, food, spirits, and snorkeling. Trips to Lanai take about two hours by sail, but half the fun is getting there. Snorkeling near Lanai is decent but not spectacular. The island itself offers very little but does boast a hotel for those wanting to redefine the word getaway. Most catamaran trips offer lunch and all the hooch you can throw down — provided you aren’t in the water or making trouble. Most trips will fish for mahi-mahi, the indigenous fish of the island chain, but Marlin and Humpbacks may also be seen. It doesn’t get much better than pushing 12 knots through the Maui breeze as you cut a path through the cobalt Pacific with a beer in one hand, and sandwich in the other, and Jimmy Buffet serenading the passengers from the Captain’s stereo. I’d recommend reserving a spot on the smaller catamarans — 20 people or less. You tend to get more personal treatment and have more room to spread out on similar-sized boats that insist on asking just a little more for the privilege. It’s well worth it. Prices start at around $100.

Hana.

Located on the westernmost side of Maui, Hana is a small town that feels like a million miles from modern times. Getting there is a trip in itself. Leave before dawn by taking the Hana Highway, a drive that wraps around the north side of the island and south again as it sidesteps Haleakala Crater. The drive is among the most breathtaking in the world. Conquer over 80 covered and/or one-lane bridges and sightsee many small waterfalls along the way. Make sure you take your survival gear however. The drive takes 4-6 hours and there’s little in the way of help once you pass Kahului. Tank up, buy a couple boxed lunches, and a Hana Highway audio tape that moderates the entire adventure. Check locally for road construction before you leave however. Last year at this time, the Hana Highway was under siege by the orange barrels and travel time was much longer than normal, especially if your caravan didn’t leave early enough and got caught in the other tourist traffic. The islands have also experienced torrential rain in the last few weeks which may or may not alter things.

Golf.

Many are curious, but I don’t swing the sticks and can’t adequately comment on it. Green fees are as treacherous as the courses in most cases, but you get what you pay for. There are plenty of courses in Kaanapali including a few world-class golf resorts across from the hotels. The southern coast is also a haven for golfers, but the notorious southside winds will keep everyone but Tiger Woods from shooting par.

Skiing.

There is no skiing on Maui. Go one island east to The Big Island and traverse the 13,000-foot peaks.

Attire.

Dress is typically casual for the south Pacific with shorts, a t-shirt, and sandals as the status quo for almost anywhere on the islands. Upscale usually means a pair of khakis and buttoned shirt, but a few choice attractions will demand a more discriminating outfit. If they do, they will mention so in their ads.

Food.

If you like seafood, this is the place. Watch out for the shellfish though if you are allergic to it because a lot of the resort breakfast and dinner buffets do a mediocre job of labeling the choices. The biggest staple is mahi-mahi, a flaky white fish indigenous to the Hawaiian waters. Of course, many other seafood delights can be found and prices are more reasonable than in years past. Hawaiians also serve a lot of pork and sausage, so don’t be surprised to see several kinds of hot and spicy selections at the breakfast table. And speaking of breakfast, there’s no better place for a plateful of fruit to start the day. Mangos, kiwi, strawberries, pineapple, and everything else under the sun await the tastebuds — and it tastes 10 times better than the stuff in the produce department at Krogers.

Restaurants abound on Maui and nearly any craving can be accommodated with a short walk or drive. The city of Lahaina offers some of the best selections and all of it is within walking distance of one another — many of which sit oceanside on the banks of the Pacific. Cheeseburger in Paradise has developed a cult following over the years and is a great two-story shuckin shack that sits on the water. The menu is predictable and prices are very modest. The chili cheese fry basket will do serious damage to any appetite.

The last time I was there a young lady who looked and sounded every bit like Jewel strummed a guitar and sang the classics. Maui is notorious for the low-profiled famous, so you never know who you will run into. Once in Lahaina, keep your eyes peeled for them in one of the art galleries. Ruth’s Chris Steak House has a location in Lahaina as well. The upscale chain has over 50 locations worldwide, but each has a unique flavor and charm. If you’ve been to one you’ve been to them all, as the food is constant throughout the franchise, but the establishment in Lahaina is a bit more upscale than those in Austin, TX, or Washington, DC. Several other restaurants in town cater to the tourist, such as Bubba Gump’s Shrimp House or Hard Rock Café. With the latter two, it’s more about style than simply food so expect a younger crowd. If it’s strictly seafood you hunger for however, ask someone who lives on the island. I get a different answer every time but have never been disappointed, and besides, it’s a great reason to take a drive and enjoy the view.